Racing to the bottom...
Unlike most reviews here, this refers to a crossing on Brittany Ferries Portsmouth - Caen route and not booking on their website. The encourage reviews of bookings but these days they don't encourage you to review their crossings. Please read on...
We’ve crossed the Western Channel more times than I could count with Brittany Ferries over the last thirty years and of course now they have a monopoly on the routes. Over the years we have mostly been very pleased with the service offered for the price paid. The ferries going back to the Duc de Normandie, the Reine Mathilde, the Bretagne, the Normandie and the Mont St. Michel, each one improving the travel experience and providing a service that was worth the bit extra Brittany Ferries charge over other operators.
We planned a trip to France for May 2025 and saw that sadly the Normandie would be retired but replaced with the brand new Guillaume de Normandie just before our crossing to Caen. We looked forward to a new experience and hopefully a new ferry that would once again up the game.
Arriving at Portsmouth for our morning crossing, the Guillaume de Normandie was already at the berth and the sight failed to impress me, from the loading area, sure, it’s painted in the Brittany Ferries logo but it’s a featureless monstrosity with all the feature of a 1970s block of council flats. Boarding went on to be slow and chaotic and the priority loading and unloading which we’d booked for the first time was not acknowledged or honoured although there is much publicity about it.
Driving on to the garage deck was impressive as much as anything because it was so new and clean and the stairways are clearly marked though gone are the days when a crew member would welcome you and hand you a card with your deck and door number on it so you know exactly where to return to, now it’s do it yourself.
Moving upstairs, we had booked a Commodore Cabin as we always do. We had seen the pictures but what a disappointment. They are probably less than half the size of the ones on the Normandie, the shower is small, the toilet badly situated and the roll could not be placed any further away. Toiletries are limited to two small bars of soap. The cabin itself is small, the double bed badly situated as one side of it is against the wall in part and the other side is very close to the wall but it had to be crammed in to the smaller cabin. There are two uncomfortable chairs, a very small table and a desk. It’s a huge downgrade on the previous experience. One thing to note is that while you pay a significant amount for a Commodore Cabin, wi-fi is an extra charge. That is not acceptable.
We made our way round the ferry. Although the service was quiet in relative terms, the public areas were overcrowded and noisy. I believe in design, Brittany Ferries did this deliberately to create an extra garage deck even though this ferry will mostly operate day time crossings – two out of every three. The shop is only open for a short time at the beginning and end of the crossing. We had lunch in the Riva Bella restaurant. That is also a huge downgrade on what went before and the food offering of burgers and fish & chips is more like a motorway service area than a Brittany Ferry. The two buffet options have also been downgraded with little protein and a lot of cheap carbohydrate. The experience has put me off eating on a Brittany Ferry again. The self service Le Jardin looked less pleasant than the Riva Bella and a lady I spoke with said she wouldn’t eat there again either.
The forecast for the crossing sea state was slight but there was a noticeable roll throughout meaning that it was wise to hold a handrail when walking to and from the cabin. Goodness only knows what it will be like on a rougher crossing and I won’t be finding out. I’ve been on a very rough crossing on the Mont St. Michel where the sea state was less noticeable.
Without a doubt, the Guillaume de Normandie is a huge downgrade on previous experience of Brittany Ferries, we will certainly avoid it on future crossings and when these mass manufactured ferries are all that they offer, well, there’s the Channel Tunnel. Without a doubt, as it comes from the same place, the new St Malo is the same poor experience.
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